HAVASUPAI

Havasupai was such a cool experience for our entire family! We were blown away by the views. It was actually our very first backpacking adventure all together, and we had an amazing experience. Naturally, since it was so great for us, we would love to help other people be able to have the same experience. I decided to write a post that is simply general information about going to Havasupai. This blog is about how to get a permit, whether or not to book a mule, the hike to Havasupai, and life while visiting some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the United States.

Some of you may be wondering, “What even is Havasupai?” Havasupai is known for their large, beautiful turquoise blue waterfalls that flow over gorgeous red rock canyons. TripAdvisor has even listed it as “World’s Most Beautiful Waterfall.” Havasupai is located on the Supai Indian Reservation in the Western Grand Canyon in Arizona. The five waterfalls include Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls, Navajo Falls, Beaver Falls, and Fifty Foot Falls. They are also coveted because the area is not open to the public; you must obtain a permit in order to visit, and they are not easy to get.

getting a permit

Since Havasupai is an Indian Reservation, before you do anything, you’re going to need to get permits. I should probably say up front that is no easy task. Although in years past you had to call for a permit, they are now sold online through their website www.havasupaireservations.com Permits only go on sale one day of the year, February 1st at 8 o’clock Arizona time. All of the permits will sell out in ONE day, usually within the first couple of hours. I recommend setting up an account on the website days/weeks before the sale date and saving your credit card information to the site for a more smooth check out. This year they made a change to the permit reservation. ALL permits were for 3nights/4days. This does not mean you have to stay the entire time if you do not wish to, but it does mean you have to pay for it. Permits cost $100 per person per weekday night or $125 per person per weekend night this year; they do seem to go up each year.

If you are unable to obtain a permit the day they go on sale (which is likely), there is the option of buying some one else’s permit through the same website. People will sometimes buy too many or realize they can’t go on the trip, and they will release their permits to the website for resale. This is the only way to resale a permit. Most of the time these permits are released close to the time of the hike, but sometimes you can get lucky!

Tips: refresh often, don’t switch browsers, and follow the live twitter feed for tips

consider a mule

Do you want a mule? No, I don’t mean the ATV to drive you down into the canyon (although, that would be nice!). The Havasupai people offer a mule train to carry packs down to the campground. This can be a nice option if you aren’t in backpacking shape, or if you’re like us, carrying a kid on your back down into the canyon. After you purchase your permit online, you’re given the option to reserve a mule. The earlier you put in for a reservation, the better. There is no guarantee you will get one; however, you are not charged unless you got a spot. Mules can carry up to four bags with dimension and weight restrictions that are listed on the website.

Drop off is at the trailhead and delivered to the ranger cabin at the campground. For the hike in, drop off is anytime before 10:00 am and you can expect your bags to arrive around 3:00 pm; for the hike out, drop of is anytime before 7:00am and you can expect your bags to arrive around noon. If you choose to use a mule, you’ll want to keep these times in mind. If you hike in early, arrive to camp before noon, and it starts to rain, you’ll probably be wishing you had hiked your tent in instead of sending it down on a mule (speaking from experience).

the hike

All about the hike. The hike to Havasupai is a 10 mile total hike with a 2,800ft elevation change. The trailhead is located at Hualapai Hilltop, which has beautiful views of the canyon. We actually got here the night before and slept in our van so we could start our hike early. We watched the sunset down into the canyon before getting our last night of rest before our trip!

It’s 8 miles of hiking to get to the Supai village and an additional 2 miles to the campground. In the first mile and a half of the hike there is 1,000 feet in elevation loss. This part of the hike is switchbacks all the way down. The trail is very well maintained and easy to follow along. Everyone obviously talks about Havasupai because of the beautiful waterfalls, but the hike is nothing to scoff at. Hiking down into the canyon and seeing the gorgeous red rocks is mind blowing. Once you make it into the Supai village, there will be signs pointing you in the right direction. You’ll make a stop at the office to check in and get your wristbands before heading down to the campground.

One important thing to keep in mind for your hike is what time you want to start your hikes in and out. If you’re hiking in the middle of the summer, you’ll likely want to hike early to avoid the heat. As in 3 am early. What information I’ve read says to allow 4-6 hours for the hike in and 5-7 for the hike out. There is no water or restrooms along the trail so you will want to be prepared on both ends. I recommend having 3L of water for each way and also your favorite trail snacks. Speaking from personal experience, the weather in and around the canyon is very unpredictable. I highly suggest having rain shields for your pack and some type of rain gear. Whether your rain gear be a giant poncho or the best REI has to offer, you’ll be glad you have it.

life at havasupai

Once you arrive to the ranger shed, the campground starts. Camping spots stretch all the way from the Ranger shed to Mooney Falls, approximately 1 mile. Havasu Creek runs along the entire campground, with some spots only able to be accessed by small walking bridges. Camping spots are first come first serve; we did not have a problem finding a nice spot. Trees are plentiful around the campground so I definitely recommend bringing a hammock! Depending on your comfort level is what I would base the site decision on. Restrooms are located by the Ranger shed and just before Mooney Falls, and the water spring is closer to the Ranger shed. The restrooms use the Phoenix Compost method and were very clean. We saw an employee cleaning them each morning, and they always had plenty of toilet paper. No campfires are allowed anywhere at Havasupai.

The spring is really nice! We read a lot about whether or not to drink the spring water before we hiked in, and we can safely say it is good. We did not filter any of our water or use chlorine/iodine tablets and we had zero problems. We used it for both cooking and drinking.

There is a general or grocery store in the Supai village; however, it is a two-mile uphill hike to get there. There are a few small food stands scattered from the village down to Havasu Falls that sell fry bread and hamburgers. We carried in all of our own food, which leads me to my next point: no trash. There are no trashcans or places to throw your trash away. This is a hike it in, hike it out, leave no trace destination. After hiking through the village and seeing trash that is left behind, I could not imagine leaving my trash for the locals to find a way to dispose. So many campers left butane gas, food, water jugs, sleeping bags, and even tents for “future campers.” The thing is, everyone is under the same impression. You have to hike in everything you need. Therefore, all this stuff people leave for “goodwill” ends up being trash for the locals to pack out. Okay, now I’m off my soapbox :) You will need a rat sack to protect your food from the giant ninja squirrels that will eat all of your food.

If you are planning your trip to Havasupai, please feel free to reach out to us! We we would love to help in any way that we can.